Oud of the Day
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Kai Leon Art Perfumer
Oud Knight
My first Oud from Ibrahim The Oud Trader (from Singapore)
'Shay Haung Phaya' ရှေးဟောင်း ဘုရား (meaning 'Ancient Temple (of Buddha)' - wild and very well-aged Burmese;
overall it projects a 'sunny' character - appearing light even at the most substantial facets; every note is interpreted with a kind-hearted disposition of the core character - along with transparent radiance in the manner of its delivery;
and the secret here is (in my feeling) down do the aging-correlated Smoothness and multiple little Nuances (some are just in traces) that flutter in and out - keeping the nose amused and entertained with its flickering variety yet in aesthetically amicable, smiling presence.
'Shay Haung Phaya' opens briefly with a dense bitter cacao-themed Resin quickly diffusing into a rather abstract and smooth, savory-rich Fermentation underpinned with equally non-specific Fruitiness - a result of that sufficiently long aging, turning the impression rather atmospheric-ambient than clear-cut specific.
The Fermentation vibe then coalesces into a well-mannered soft stable theme - Horse Hair along with overripe orange fruits (happy horse feeding on overripe funky apricots and plums that fell to the ground) and a well-worn polished Leather of Saddle - rich yet full of lift and soft skin sensuality at the core; and that Saddle Leather facet remains a binding motif at the core all the way to the drydown*.
Then - rather promptly - subtle but clear peppery-clove savory Spice - as an overtone - pops up, along with continuously oscillating abstract-floral delicate glimpses (south-asian Lilies??), joining the fermented fruits' 'entertainment' - all together giving a palpable, textural feel added to the 'Leather' - creating an impression of warm humid saddle after a summer joy ride - wet with a warm fresh sweat of agile steed mingled with that of an excited human - that has choosen to ride nude on that jolly occasion (or maybe that's how he rides always - certainly not me 😉 ) - hence the direct mixture of the 'saddle' with the salty sweat, both innocent, unobtrusively natural - yet carnally exciting Human Musk.
And that is perhaps the most attractive feature of this Oud - being simultaneously straght-forward, open-hearted and well-mannered - like a peaceful, kindly smiling monk - yet harboring palpable (if not to say substantial) corporeal allure of full-blooded funky-musky Sensuality, still youthful and robustly healthy.
At the heart phase, all that richness morphes into a proper Balsamic 'Liquor' of savory-bittersweet-sappy, smoothed powdery-while-juicy Resin - 'liquor' because just like with complex fruity-spicy-herbal bouquets transformed into tinctured concoctions - once served as proper medications and now - as pleasure drinks; where the aging of fermented elements has created additional dimensions not present in the original material - making it not just more suave, complex and polished-elevated, but 'fluffy' - like a hair of velvet fabric or a voluminous silk carpet, demonstrating that truly fine Oud scent gives off a textural experience as well -
and 'Shay Haung Phaya' has plenty of Texture, adding to the overall enjoyment.
Additionally to the 'Balsamic Liquor' at the heart stage, I notice some other beautiful metamorphose - the horse hair animalic tone moves into an Ambergris-like vibe, with added Mineralic Zest (of crumbled weathered rocks and humid driftwood) - here played as a savory, delicate nuance. The 'ancient books' aged-paper vibe makes an appearance as well - as a soft, secondary and undulating nuance to the 'fluffy' Velvety Resin. The elusive abstract floral traces keep popping up unexpectedly and briefly- adding the lively entertaining traits to the main character.
All these developments eventually settle down into a smooth yet lively aged bittersweet Resin delicately seasoned with savory spices, aged dried fruits and a lurking Leather-musky/funky-Skin.
Now to the * asterisk of the Drydown - it is truly remarkably looooong - this Oud is very, very tenacious, lasting without flatlining (falling apart) much longer than I initially would expected. We all appreciate Tenacity that lasts into the next day - as a part of the Functional Excellence.
'Shay Haung Phaya' impresses me as a poignantly Human essence - combining the allusion to spiritual depth and purity with yet retained human nature, expressed with still vibing sensual, carnal vibe - like a young monk - while committed to the formidable weight of spiritual monastic dedication - yet has not lost all its human passions and in the corner of his pure and kind smile, a naughty boyishly playful innuendo is lurking somewhere. Naturally Lovely Human.
And so I nickname this Burmese Oud 'The Naughty Monk'.
Considering the very attractive price, overall polished character - with a variety of nuances, and the fact the this oil straddles the line between classically Indian and Cambodian archetypes - ingeniously and tastefully - 'Shay Haung Phaya' is not just pleasurable for the lovers of the both or either genres -
but a very useful, broadly appealing and attractive material for perfume composing - especially with its heavy-duty Tenacity that will power up any composition.
'Shay Haung Phaya' ရှေးဟောင်း ဘုရား (meaning 'Ancient Temple (of Buddha)' - wild and very well-aged Burmese;
overall it projects a 'sunny' character - appearing light even at the most substantial facets; every note is interpreted with a kind-hearted disposition of the core character - along with transparent radiance in the manner of its delivery;
and the secret here is (in my feeling) down do the aging-correlated Smoothness and multiple little Nuances (some are just in traces) that flutter in and out - keeping the nose amused and entertained with its flickering variety yet in aesthetically amicable, smiling presence.
'Shay Haung Phaya' opens briefly with a dense bitter cacao-themed Resin quickly diffusing into a rather abstract and smooth, savory-rich Fermentation underpinned with equally non-specific Fruitiness - a result of that sufficiently long aging, turning the impression rather atmospheric-ambient than clear-cut specific.
The Fermentation vibe then coalesces into a well-mannered soft stable theme - Horse Hair along with overripe orange fruits (happy horse feeding on overripe funky apricots and plums that fell to the ground) and a well-worn polished Leather of Saddle - rich yet full of lift and soft skin sensuality at the core; and that Saddle Leather facet remains a binding motif at the core all the way to the drydown*.
Then - rather promptly - subtle but clear peppery-clove savory Spice - as an overtone - pops up, along with continuously oscillating abstract-floral delicate glimpses (south-asian Lilies??), joining the fermented fruits' 'entertainment' - all together giving a palpable, textural feel added to the 'Leather' - creating an impression of warm humid saddle after a summer joy ride - wet with a warm fresh sweat of agile steed mingled with that of an excited human - that has choosen to ride nude on that jolly occasion (or maybe that's how he rides always - certainly not me 😉 ) - hence the direct mixture of the 'saddle' with the salty sweat, both innocent, unobtrusively natural - yet carnally exciting Human Musk.
And that is perhaps the most attractive feature of this Oud - being simultaneously straght-forward, open-hearted and well-mannered - like a peaceful, kindly smiling monk - yet harboring palpable (if not to say substantial) corporeal allure of full-blooded funky-musky Sensuality, still youthful and robustly healthy.
At the heart phase, all that richness morphes into a proper Balsamic 'Liquor' of savory-bittersweet-sappy, smoothed powdery-while-juicy Resin - 'liquor' because just like with complex fruity-spicy-herbal bouquets transformed into tinctured concoctions - once served as proper medications and now - as pleasure drinks; where the aging of fermented elements has created additional dimensions not present in the original material - making it not just more suave, complex and polished-elevated, but 'fluffy' - like a hair of velvet fabric or a voluminous silk carpet, demonstrating that truly fine Oud scent gives off a textural experience as well -
and 'Shay Haung Phaya' has plenty of Texture, adding to the overall enjoyment.
Additionally to the 'Balsamic Liquor' at the heart stage, I notice some other beautiful metamorphose - the horse hair animalic tone moves into an Ambergris-like vibe, with added Mineralic Zest (of crumbled weathered rocks and humid driftwood) - here played as a savory, delicate nuance. The 'ancient books' aged-paper vibe makes an appearance as well - as a soft, secondary and undulating nuance to the 'fluffy' Velvety Resin. The elusive abstract floral traces keep popping up unexpectedly and briefly- adding the lively entertaining traits to the main character.
All these developments eventually settle down into a smooth yet lively aged bittersweet Resin delicately seasoned with savory spices, aged dried fruits and a lurking Leather-musky/funky-Skin.
Now to the * asterisk of the Drydown - it is truly remarkably looooong - this Oud is very, very tenacious, lasting without flatlining (falling apart) much longer than I initially would expected. We all appreciate Tenacity that lasts into the next day - as a part of the Functional Excellence.
'Shay Haung Phaya' impresses me as a poignantly Human essence - combining the allusion to spiritual depth and purity with yet retained human nature, expressed with still vibing sensual, carnal vibe - like a young monk - while committed to the formidable weight of spiritual monastic dedication - yet has not lost all its human passions and in the corner of his pure and kind smile, a naughty boyishly playful innuendo is lurking somewhere. Naturally Lovely Human.
And so I nickname this Burmese Oud 'The Naughty Monk'.
Considering the very attractive price, overall polished character - with a variety of nuances, and the fact the this oil straddles the line between classically Indian and Cambodian archetypes - ingeniously and tastefully - 'Shay Haung Phaya' is not just pleasurable for the lovers of the both or either genres -
but a very useful, broadly appealing and attractive material for perfume composing - especially with its heavy-duty Tenacity that will power up any composition.
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Dr B1414
True Ouddict
Imperial Oud Super Hoi An - this arrived today, and I could not resist. This is my first experience with this oil, and it is not in ideal weather conditions. Hence, I need to study and wear it more for a better understanding.
This oil is unlike any other Vietnamese oil I tried, and much closer to an old-school Chinese oil. This type of profile is what I have been searching for ever since I laid my nose on the original batch of EO Hainan 2005. The latter is one of my favorites, if not my favorite Chinese oil ever. Not the most beautiful, or the most grand, or the rarest, but the most complex and compelling. I have long searched for an oil of similar profile and quality, yet avail. This Imperial Oud oil fits that bill. It sits closest to the OG Hainan 2005, but I also get a strong Green Kinam quality in the opening, mingled with some dry woody and earthy-green facets very similar to the ones found in Oriscent Port Moresby and EO Kinamantan. And then, some very red and bitter-medicinal facets à la Oriscent Hyang Kang. A sort of savory herbs and some red bitter flavor like tomato skins. I don't get any sweetness from this. I see some people mention a slight barn-like aroma, but to me it's more like the "Chinese barn" than the typical "Hindi barn." These entities smell very distinct in my opinion. The Chinese barn is more like a combination of wool-like muskiness and ambergris. It's animalic in a very pheromonal way. These facets are also strong in the Hainan 2005 oil, although there they are only present in the opening and then fade away. Here, they are present throughout. As it evolves, it gets into darker wood territory, akin to mahogany, but I don't get any of the Sinensis honey-like sweetness which eventually creeps in with the Hainan 2005. It only gets darker, stays smoky (bitter incense), and musky. The muskiness is incredibly addicting. This musky pedigree is one of the things I love most about old-school Chinese oils and have been struggling to find, and it is cast out in all these new-gen oils. Such a shame, as I find this bit an absolute treat, and a must. This oil is quite a trip. Not as complex as the Hainan 2005, but in that vein, only darker, muskier, and less sweet. If one loves that oil, this is a no-brainer. The dry-down is my favorite part. It feels like burning some incense in a clean barn while laying of sheep skin and chewing on some bitter tea leaves. I'm looking forward to testing it further. I think this DNA is becoming impossible to find these days. I wish I could find some of the OG Chinese Exclusive, as it sounds much in this vein. But yes, this oil smells more Chinese than Vietnamese to me, and I'm not saying that as a negative.
This oil is unlike any other Vietnamese oil I tried, and much closer to an old-school Chinese oil. This type of profile is what I have been searching for ever since I laid my nose on the original batch of EO Hainan 2005. The latter is one of my favorites, if not my favorite Chinese oil ever. Not the most beautiful, or the most grand, or the rarest, but the most complex and compelling. I have long searched for an oil of similar profile and quality, yet avail. This Imperial Oud oil fits that bill. It sits closest to the OG Hainan 2005, but I also get a strong Green Kinam quality in the opening, mingled with some dry woody and earthy-green facets very similar to the ones found in Oriscent Port Moresby and EO Kinamantan. And then, some very red and bitter-medicinal facets à la Oriscent Hyang Kang. A sort of savory herbs and some red bitter flavor like tomato skins. I don't get any sweetness from this. I see some people mention a slight barn-like aroma, but to me it's more like the "Chinese barn" than the typical "Hindi barn." These entities smell very distinct in my opinion. The Chinese barn is more like a combination of wool-like muskiness and ambergris. It's animalic in a very pheromonal way. These facets are also strong in the Hainan 2005 oil, although there they are only present in the opening and then fade away. Here, they are present throughout. As it evolves, it gets into darker wood territory, akin to mahogany, but I don't get any of the Sinensis honey-like sweetness which eventually creeps in with the Hainan 2005. It only gets darker, stays smoky (bitter incense), and musky. The muskiness is incredibly addicting. This musky pedigree is one of the things I love most about old-school Chinese oils and have been struggling to find, and it is cast out in all these new-gen oils. Such a shame, as I find this bit an absolute treat, and a must. This oil is quite a trip. Not as complex as the Hainan 2005, but in that vein, only darker, muskier, and less sweet. If one loves that oil, this is a no-brainer. The dry-down is my favorite part. It feels like burning some incense in a clean barn while laying of sheep skin and chewing on some bitter tea leaves. I'm looking forward to testing it further. I think this DNA is becoming impossible to find these days. I wish I could find some of the OG Chinese Exclusive, as it sounds much in this vein. But yes, this oil smells more Chinese than Vietnamese to me, and I'm not saying that as a negative.
Mr.P
oud<3er
i'm always interested in seeing reviews of this oil - I agree with your characterization of its aroma across the board. I don't have the experience with the specific oils you compare it to other than the Chinese exclusive which I have a bit of (this one I felt was an excellent deal and I grabbed a couple bottles of it back in the day). It's vaguely similar on one level, but overall a quite different experience. The Chinese exclusive is clearly top shelf oil i think, but the fermentation is not quite as well done or as balanced with the beautiful notes. Pleasant, peaty, "chinese style" ferment and barn mostly but with a bit of that other type of heavy fermentation as well that I'm less crazy about; it's a simpler oil, less of an olfactory connection to sinensis / kyara / kinam though it's still there, and even though it's beautiful it misses those really sublime facets that make the SHA stand out. it's a little bit more of an ordinary high-quality traditional fermented oud experience with some above average fermentation notes for sure. The original Chinese exclusive also lacks any of that hainan honey sweetness.
also the notes you describe as ambergris and wool-like I think I tend to associate with certain types of soil or soil builders... The wool aspect I am less familiar with but the musk and ambergris aspects i get, I smell something similar in some bales of dried peat moss I use for soil maintenance. It's an exceptional aroma and and I 100% agree that it's a Chinese style barn/fermentation
also the notes you describe as ambergris and wool-like I think I tend to associate with certain types of soil or soil builders... The wool aspect I am less familiar with but the musk and ambergris aspects i get, I smell something similar in some bales of dried peat moss I use for soil maintenance. It's an exceptional aroma and and I 100% agree that it's a Chinese style barn/fermentation
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mobyus
True Ouddict
Alnnahe Oud - Souq AlZal Special Issue
I took the plunge with this new vendor. The oil did not disappoint. It’s a full-bodied dark slight viscous Oud. This is a blend of Trat, Prachin forest, and Ouds from the Hindi border. And the notes im picking up precisely line up with those scents. I’m getting melon 🍈, mint 🌿, petrichor, slightly barnyard on the edge and the spiciness from the Trat. It’s cooling, spicy, dusty, and packs a punch. Really nice for a low-cost oil. Very beautiful blend.
I took the plunge with this new vendor. The oil did not disappoint. It’s a full-bodied dark slight viscous Oud. This is a blend of Trat, Prachin forest, and Ouds from the Hindi border. And the notes im picking up precisely line up with those scents. I’m getting melon 🍈, mint 🌿, petrichor, slightly barnyard on the edge and the spiciness from the Trat. It’s cooling, spicy, dusty, and packs a punch. Really nice for a low-cost oil. Very beautiful blend.
Attachments
![[Ouddict.com] Oud of the Day](https://data.ouddict.com/attachments/55/55251-57865cbe15a8572e0248663c4563afdf.jpg?hash=_oWuRPSPCU)
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aoudgauze
True Ouddict
Manzar Oudh's Kalakassi. This one seems to take to further aging very well. The first few times I swiped it the barn teetered on unbearable, which is saying a lot given that I like barn! Now the oil is very "hot," with a kind of spice that makes my mouth water, and there's also a watery incense note that is supported by a bit of that "gummy bear" berry-candy-like scent I adore in oud. Something about this oil still makes it quite rustic, as if it is one of those oils to swipe and wait an hour before heading out the house so as not to scare anyone!
Alamande
True Ouddict
I have the impression that these oils will age well, even though I have never actually tried to age an oud oil (and therefore admittedly don’t really know what I’m talking about 🤣). But based on my experience with aging wine and assessing wines as they age, I just have the feeling that time will be kind to these. We’ll see.
Wild Cambodi by @Faizal_p
Somewhat older Release landed in my hands today🤩. Super high grade wild Koh Kong.
I had some expectacions before getting it and all of them were exceeded damn. Clean, heavy, deeply red oud. Like a big bowl of red fruits. Also has some crispy note that uplifts it even more. This profile is what I have been searching after: fruity but not leathery, deep but not incensey, heavy but also crisp. The quality of this Cambodi stands far apart from anything I have tried before.
![[Ouddict.com] Oud of the Day](https://www.ouddict.com/attachments/1000128173-webp.56073/ "[Ouddict.com] Oud of the Day")
Somewhat older Release landed in my hands today🤩. Super high grade wild Koh Kong.
I had some expectacions before getting it and all of them were exceeded damn. Clean, heavy, deeply red oud. Like a big bowl of red fruits. Also has some crispy note that uplifts it even more. This profile is what I have been searching after: fruity but not leathery, deep but not incensey, heavy but also crisp. The quality of this Cambodi stands far apart from anything I have tried before.
mobyus
True Ouddict
Sokkat AlTeeb - Cambodi Qadeem
This is an ultra thaqeel viscous dark oud. Extremely sweet with notes of berries 🍇, figs, raisins, and strawberry jam 🍓 with a nice clean leather scent to accompany it. It’s also evocative of sweet honey and woody resins. It’s deep, rich, and definitely aged well. Very beautiful oud and one of the flagships of Sokkat AlTeeb.
![[Ouddict.com] Oud of the Day](https://www.ouddict.com/attachments/c826832d-2736-4f5f-a8ed-9d5c27a0928e-webp.56076/ "[Ouddict.com] Oud of the Day")
This is an ultra thaqeel viscous dark oud. Extremely sweet with notes of berries 🍇, figs, raisins, and strawberry jam 🍓 with a nice clean leather scent to accompany it. It’s also evocative of sweet honey and woody resins. It’s deep, rich, and definitely aged well. Very beautiful oud and one of the flagships of Sokkat AlTeeb.
SteveE
Oud to Joy
@Habz786 Kedah Sultan
Huuuge swipe … rare for me. Rewarding me with a deeper look into the facets. I think my lip touched some when I was sniffing my hand and has gone a bit numb!
I can’t improve his own description
on a major Habz kick lately 🙂
Huuuge swipe … rare for me. Rewarding me with a deeper look into the facets. I think my lip touched some when I was sniffing my hand and has gone a bit numb!
I can’t improve his own description
on a major Habz kick lately 🙂
Olfactory Nomad
Smells so Oud
Omph! I wasn't even aware this oil existed! Now I want some. Damn!
SamiterkiW
True Ouddict
Hi Salam Ouddicts 🙂
Today I swiped two very high grade oils …
MesOud TrangQuil 🏥💉🍒🍯🫐
MesOud Hainam 🍯🍈🍎🍦🍪
These two oils are amongst the best oils I tried from their regions …
The accuracy is unbelievable…
These got the actual scent of the wood heated at low temp !
Complexity, deepness , evolving is absolutely amazing
The anesthetic feeling in TrangQuil is something I’ve never experienced before … and the Kinamic bouquets of notes in Hainam is just beautiful !
I am really impressed by how the oils from Mehmet changed my mind about few region I thought I knew before…
Now I can identify the “auxiliary notes” from some other oils I referenced as legend before …
These MesOud oils doesn’t has any additional notes which are not available in the wood itself …
Honestly the best oils from their region I tried to date …
Curious to smell the differences in 10 years inshallah …
I wish you a Gooud swipe 💉🪵
Today I swiped two very high grade oils …
MesOud TrangQuil 🏥💉🍒🍯🫐
MesOud Hainam 🍯🍈🍎🍦🍪
These two oils are amongst the best oils I tried from their regions …
The accuracy is unbelievable…
These got the actual scent of the wood heated at low temp !
Complexity, deepness , evolving is absolutely amazing
The anesthetic feeling in TrangQuil is something I’ve never experienced before … and the Kinamic bouquets of notes in Hainam is just beautiful !
I am really impressed by how the oils from Mehmet changed my mind about few region I thought I knew before…
Now I can identify the “auxiliary notes” from some other oils I referenced as legend before …
These MesOud oils doesn’t has any additional notes which are not available in the wood itself …
Honestly the best oils from their region I tried to date …
Curious to smell the differences in 10 years inshallah …
I wish you a Gooud swipe 💉🪵
Indeed. There is a narcotic quality and those peachy powdery notes... cannot get enough of this oil...
mobyus
True Ouddict
Wadima Oud - Thai Jameel
This is a viscous dark incense-y, rainwater-y 💦, ozonic, fresh oud with notes of drenched soil, petrichor, and wood. It also reminds me of neutral flavored unripened fruits, mainly avocado 🥑, bananas, and melon. Very beautiful scent coming off of this. Bitter-dry bliss.
![[Ouddict.com] Oud of the Day](https://www.ouddict.com/attachments/42c4d5c7-5f37-4b37-a411-88994a80c24f-webp.56084/ "[Ouddict.com] Oud of the Day")
This is a viscous dark incense-y, rainwater-y 💦, ozonic, fresh oud with notes of drenched soil, petrichor, and wood. It also reminds me of neutral flavored unripened fruits, mainly avocado 🥑, bananas, and melon. Very beautiful scent coming off of this. Bitter-dry bliss.
mesOUD
Resident Artisan
Thank you, my brother. What you have noticed is very close to the reason I began distilling in the first place. My aim has always been to present the character of the wood as faithfully and transparently as I can, without allowing anything unnecessary to speak louder than the material itself.
When I began this journey, I also believed that I knew how many regions were supposed to smell. But once I started working directly with the raw materials, I had to admit that more than 90% of the references I had previously formed were not as reliable as I once thought.
This does not always mean deliberate adulteration. An oil may pass through many hands before reaching the person who sells it. A regional identity may sometimes be assigned simply because two people smell it and decide that it resembles a certain origin. In other cases, wood from one region may be added to a batch identified as another. The resulting oil may still be beautiful and completely natural, but it can no longer be considered a precise reference for that region.
That distinction is very important to me. My intention is not to claim that my interpretation is the only truth, but to remove as many layers of uncertainty as possible: to know the material, distil it myself, and allow the oil to express only what genuinely exists within the wood.
I am still learning with every distillation, but if these oils help someone reconsider what they thought they knew about a region, then perhaps the wood has finally been given the opportunity to speak clearly.
When I began this journey, I also believed that I knew how many regions were supposed to smell. But once I started working directly with the raw materials, I had to admit that more than 90% of the references I had previously formed were not as reliable as I once thought.
This does not always mean deliberate adulteration. An oil may pass through many hands before reaching the person who sells it. A regional identity may sometimes be assigned simply because two people smell it and decide that it resembles a certain origin. In other cases, wood from one region may be added to a batch identified as another. The resulting oil may still be beautiful and completely natural, but it can no longer be considered a precise reference for that region.
That distinction is very important to me. My intention is not to claim that my interpretation is the only truth, but to remove as many layers of uncertainty as possible: to know the material, distil it myself, and allow the oil to express only what genuinely exists within the wood.
I am still learning with every distillation, but if these oils help someone reconsider what they thought they knew about a region, then perhaps the wood has finally been given the opportunity to speak clearly.
aoudgauze
True Ouddict
Royal Bengal Oud's Phucket oil macerated with Mongolian musk, plus a spray of ALD Cuir de Russie 2. RBO's oud is such a deep plum, as if a ripe plum fell off the tree into wet soil that a deer is now grazing on. It merges beautiful with the white florals, lotus, and oily-inky beaver tail leather in CdR2, adding a spicy incense note.
AlHind Oud
Resident Artisan
I’m delighted to see someone else has taken it. I had the exact same experience a couple of weeks ago when I was wearing it and was contemplating whether to buy it back even though I already have some for myself. Enjoy!!
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