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Derby - Guerlain.
I’m lucky to have been able to an acquire one of these original ‘eagle bottles’. This particular bottle is from 1985 & it’s in exceptional condition. I purchased it from a seller in Muscat who’d stored it very well. It’s always a risk collecting vintage French perfumes, as sometimes the top notes can be affected by age.
During the 1980s, masculine French perfumery had become very muscular, square jawed, animalic due to the success of perfumes such as Antaeus & Kouros. Most of the French houses were releasing their vision of ‘powerhouse’ perfumes. Guerlain attempted to capitalise upon this genre with Derby, a green mossy leather chypre. Although Guerlain tried to depart from their oriental leaning, powdery, dandified floral masculine aesthetic, Derby is too refined to be considered a true ‘powerhouse’.
Green, cool spicy, minty, herbal, bergamot top notes give way to a subtle, complex, romantic floral heart of Rose & Jasmine, far too pretty to be considered rugged in any way. Much of the same in the base, although the bitter green oakmoss & dark leather is dosed high, a soft tobacco & warm, powdery amber note are too prominent, too plush for Derby to widely appeal to the virile 1980s masculine taste. Today, perfume critics rate it one of the greatest masculines, but it failed at the time of release.
Re-packaged, then discontinued in the mid 90s, it received a re-release in 2012, however the formula had been adjusted to appease IFRA regulations, subsequently the new incarnation of Derby was significantly altered & again pulled from the market a few years later.
Thankfully, during the last 10 years or so, Derby has finally received the respect it deserves. Boosted by the ‘5 star / masterpiece’ rating in Luca Turin’s book ‘Perfumes: The A-Z Guide’, a new wave of perfume enthusiasts have discovered it’s beauty.