Perfume of the Day

[mobyus]

Henry Jacques - Monsieur Bouquet

This is a really beautiful perfume oil that I got as a decant. It has top notes of cinnamon leaf 🍂 and pine needle. Middle notes of benzoin, leather and patchouli. Base notes of amber, frankincense, and musk. I can’t describe it any other way than to mention its ingredients. it’s just such an amazing scent. This one doesn’t have oud in it but it’s worth a notable mention. It’s like HJ was a perfume house meant for me. I have yet to come across an HJ scent that I disliked.

Edit: It's really cinnamon-forward which I love a lot. Feels like it's good for the Winter. The patchouli and frankincense are also irresistible. The pine needle is like the icing on the cake. I love this ingredient. Provides a nice woody fresh scent overall.

 

[Mr.P]

I am getting a first impression of a spray version of "Jasmine Malaccensis" from @An Najwa

I recall an attar version of this from a year ago or so, but it's been a long time since I've smelled that. The first impression is strongly oudy-musky, seemingly a pretty robusto traditional style oud; it is blended with a very pronounced medly of benzoin-like sugary sweetness and spicy and fruity floral notes. I feel like the overall impression is unique but also recognizably @An Najwa style in terms of the interplay of musky, traditional oud, and some fruity elements. At the moment, the jasmine in this smells mellow and blended in to me, not a stand out note.

because of the prevalence of oud and musk and perhaps ambergris this has some of the presence of a ghaliya, assuming I understand that style. this to me is that kind of luxurious Middle Eastern musk and oud oriented accord that is kind of recognizable as a unifying theme. The projection and tenacity of this type of fragrance is pretty amazing - really highlights the power of these animal origin and fermented materials to create fragrances that actively engage with the senses over extended periods of time.

Overall result is luxurious, heavy, redolent with these precious materials. I'm still developing an understanding of the fragrance here - my reviews of perfumes are never as confident as my reviews of individual oils. It can take many wears with a clean palate to really understand all of the nuances of complex fragrances like these - this review is basically a first impression even though it's not literally the first whiff I've had of the perfume.

 

[rudymeister]

Lazy sunday morning by maison margiela.

 

[Joe]

I choose Malle’s The Night. But does it contrail hydrodistilled Oud oil or Oud absolute, hear me out:

On the back of the bottle is states, high on the ingredient list, that it contains “Aquilaria agallocha stem extract” look at the words “stem” and “extract” those two, combined with the Boctanical name, and legally they have to list their ingredients by Boctanical names, not their common name, is essentially an Oud-derived extract taken from the stems/wood of the Aquilaria tree, NOT the heartwood. Someone more experience with distillation processes can be useful here. But basically, it’s the same tree that produces natural oud. But is says extract. Does Th hat mean bydrodistallation (Oud) or solvent extraction (an absolute) the two are not the same but I do know that an absolute procuces more material than the traditional stream extraction. Interesting...

To me, ”Stem extract” does not necessarily mean distilled oud oil.

The listing suggests a solvent extract or a botanical extract of Aquilaria wood. The first is not a traditional, hydro-distilled oud oil.

It's like the difference between Rose absolute vs Rose essential oil, aka Rose Otto.

Even on the Malle website for the Night says, “THE NIGHT unveils absolute oud, used in inordinate amounts.”

Again, interesting. I've smelled both and both can be just as beautiful as Rose absolute and Rose Otto. But again, they each have their own properties. Rose Otto is a bridge from the top to middle absolutes. Oud absolute is a base not, and it's very different in smell than Oud essential oils. Again, I am not inferring anything yet as it could all just be marketing BS and not using perfumers’ terms. But let me do some research on this. What does your bottle say?

 

[holy-wood]

AGURU by TRNP today with a swipe of ASO’s Leyte Classic. A bright peppery green combo with some strong sharp leather from the leyte. A pleasant combo.

 

[oudcast]

Seeking Balance - St. Clair Scents

Top Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin Green, Lemon, Galbanum CO2

Middle Notes: Lavender absolute and maillette, Rose Bulgaria, Geranium, Jasmin, Cassie Abs, Orris Butter

Base Notes: Patchouli, Oakmoss, Labdanum, Vetiver, Vanilla, Carrot Seed, Sandalwood India, Tonka Bean, Musks

This is a reworking/re-issue of a fragrance Diane made during the pandemic. It arrived yesterday and it is so soapy, it's overwhelming. I can't figure out why. I've smelled each of these ingredients in her earlier perfumes. Can anyone hazard a guess? Is there any chance the soapiness would die down over time? She just made and bottled this over the past couple of months.

I only smelled the original. I really like how Diane plays with citrus tops and gets them to persist. I do see a huge influence of chanel no 5/waxy aldehydes in some of the stuff of hers that I smelled. A magic ratio of oakmoss, galbanum, orris butter would be my culprits if I had to pick what is responsible

 

[Joe]

i swiped a blotter with some of the Spikenard Oud Orchestra from @Joe - a very interesting multilayered scent that forms an appealing accord and also has individual facets that speak out - bright citrusy floral notes in the top, the musky sweetness of spikenard seems to have a nice effect - tying the bright top notes and deeper base elements together. Nice one!

Thank you, your opinion means a lot.

 

[Mr.P]

Thank you, your opinion means a lot.

it's genuinely good stuff, well blended.

 

[mobyus]

Fuse Kuala Lumpur - Prestige Series, Crave (sample)

A very lovely Parfum with notes of geranium 🌺, pink pepper, pineapple 🍍, vanilla, tonka bean, orange 🍊, tobacco 🚬 , and Malaysian Oud.

 

[Joe]

Fuse Kuala Lumpur - Prestige Series, Crave (sample)

A very lovely Parfum with notes of geranium 🌺, pink pepper, pineapple 🍍, vanilla, tonka bean, orange 🍊, tobacco 🚬 , and Malaysian Oud.

Yes, sounds lovely, @mobyus . The tonka must round off the sweetness of the vanilla, which is extremely expensive if it’s all natural, and the tonka is filled with coumarin, which happens to be the first aroma chemical produced by William Perkin (?) in 1868.

Coumarin has a very pleasant, nice hay-like quality that is also an almond-like odor profile. It tempers the sweetness of what I am assuming is vanillin. Coumarin wasn’t extracted from the tonka bean, but you can buy it at a much higher price, extracted from tonka beans.

It’s also an allergen, but you’ll find it’s widely used in many semi-naturals or synthetic perfumes.

Interestingly, William Perkin, British, also discovered the very first synthetic dye: a deep, vibrant purple.

 

[Joe]

I am wearing the semi-synthetic EdP called Hope by Malle. It is load3ed with ISO E Super, and it has a cedar-like, ambered woody quality. I THINK it was one of the first woody-ambers, but don’t quote me on that. It also has vetiver in it, which is natural, but I get hints of oud, certainly not worth it if oud is your thing. Surely it was to keep the costs down, as well as artistic impressions; and, I assume again, it’s made for the Western market which likes its oud as an accent, not in overdose. Though the Night and the beginning of The Moon have loads of ouds in them. The oud in The Night I suspect in Indian, and the oud in The Moon is maybe something with a sweeter, less funky than a Hindi in The Night.

I’ve never smelled Dawn. For those of you who have, is it worth it? I’d rather keep in credit/money in a real product I can easily find for sale now on ouddict.

 

[mobyus]

KYMYA - Kambodi

This isn’t just your regular chypre that does the job. The scent goes above and beyond what you might expect. The citrus and geranium notes sit atop a base of Cambodi oud, musk, cedar wood, and leather. It’s a very masculine scent and I would have no problem wearing this on social occasions or to work. As many of my oud or fragrance experiences are intimate and meant to please only me. This parfum can be worn confidently anywhere. The fragrance notes just resonate with me and feel like a real extension of myself. Great job @Hamza H and looking forward to Rawdah.

 

[mobyus]

Hunayn - Silk Dunes

Right off the bat I'm getting this pink pepper, cinnamon, and clove top. It's beautiful and warming. The heart then reveals the finest rose and saffron notes. The base feels leathery, and oudy. And there's a touch of frankincense and Mysore sandalwood. Absolutely mesmerizing scent that can be worn on any occasion. I'm enveloped by the finest ingredients there are. And only 150 bottles were made - adding to the allure.

 

[YongShengChin]

I am wearing the semi-synthetic EdP called Hope by Malle. It is load3ed with ISO E Super, and it has a cedar-like, ambered woody quality. I THINK it was one of the first woody-ambers, but don’t quote me on that. It also has vetiver in it, which is natural, but I get hints of oud, certainly not worth it if oud is your thing. Surely it was to keep the costs down, as well as artistic impressions; and, I assume again, it’s made for the Western market which likes its oud as an accent, not in overdose. Though the Night and the beginning of The Moon have loads of ouds in them. The oud in The Night I suspect in Indian, and the oud in The Moon is maybe something with a sweeter, less funky than a Hindi in The Night.

I’ve never smelled Dawn. For those of you who have, is it worth it? I’d rather keep in credit/money in a real product I can easily find for sale now on ouddict.

I have sampled Dawn in store quite some time back. It doesn’t strike me as a oud centric fragrance. It is incense forward. I would say, save your money!

 

[Oudnoob]

I have sampled Dawn in store quite some time back. It doesn’t strike me as a oud centric fragrance. It is incense forward. I would say, save your money!

I just got rid of Dawn. Very dry, incense dominated fragrance. Zero Oud.

 

[Oudnoob]

My combination for tonight.

Absolute powerhouse combination 😍

 

[Joe]

I have sampled Dawn in store quite some time back. It doesn’t strike me as a oud centric fragrance. It is incense forward. I would say, save your money!

Great. Cause I don’t have the case for it! Thanks for your reply.

 

[Joe]

My combination for tonight.

Absolute powerhouse combination 😍

I’m getting a bottle at a reduced price of Outlands. How oud-centrist is it?

 

[Oudnoob]

I’m getting a bottle at a reduced price of Outlands. How oud-centrist is it?

The short answer is, it isn't mate. It's a wonderful scent but little to no Oud, like most commercial perfumes these days.

 

[mobyus]

Areej Le Dore - Malik Al Motia

It’s a cool 20C clear night with moderate winds blowing. I decide to wear a fragrance that brings warmth. I reach for ALD Malik Al Motia and spray like Russian Adam applies his way.

It opens with sharp jasmine and blue lotus off the top. The jasmine feels really concentrated and I think that’s due to the jasmine sambac in the heart. The whole parfum is caressed by sandalwood and oud. It feels really clean, sweet, floral, and spicy. I love this fragrance and it’s a delight to have in anyone’s collection.